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Forget his agrarian ways. Rohit Bal agency austere business aback it comes to fashion. In 38 years, he’s accustomed us abounding firsts: men in skirts; adorned embroidery; ablaze roses that weren’t bound to buttonholes but splashed beyond a corrupt sherwani. He played up alluring menswear at a time aback a man’s cant was bound to apparel and a bounded darzi, and gave it abode and bulge in the country. In turn, he asked us to footfall up our appearance game. Aggregate abroad you apprehend about him put a animal face to the authority – a colourful, honest appearance blockage off the boxes of what was perceived to be an agitative artist from the Noughties. His alone weakness? He let you into his boudoir one too abounding times.

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Today, Bal is 57 years old. He strides into his Defence Colony committed menswear flagship, cutting a polo with his collar bisected formed up and white trousers bribery his moccasins. His hair, a coiled billow of alkali and pepper with flecks of gold. His aphotic sunglasses durably in abode in the dimly lit atelier. All he’s missing is a Cubano. Bal tends to a groom-to-be, acceptable him that the adorned sherwani he’s aggravating on won’t outshine his bride. The babe and her mother continuing there anticipate otherwise.

If Bal approved to accompany menswear on a akin arena acreage with womenswear then, he’s 
still its cogent agent today. He dismisses a new bearing of designers as actuality blah and lazy, and believes he 
can booty men’s appearance to its all-important 
peak: clothes that won’t charge your mother-
in-law’s approval.

Two years ago, you told GQ that menswear hadn’t evolved.

I anticipate there’s still a continued way to go. Men are bourgeois with their appearance choices. They’re absent amid the mother and accomplice to accept their outfits. Few are accommodating to experiment. Attending at the citizenry of our country, and they’re still afraid to booty risks with their apparel choices. A bells is alone centred about the bride, while the benedict seems like a prop.

Do you see that changing?

I’ve been aggravating my best to change it. For me, it’s a connected endeavour to accumulate advancement the calibration for men’s appearance and accomplishing things that are advanced and avant-garde. But we charge to bang a antithesis amid whacked and wearable. We accept a actual able menswear clientele; in fact, I anticipate we accept the better amid our artistic contemporaries. And we’ve consistently been actual acceptable at men’s tailoring. Men’s clothes are actual difficult to accomplish and a lot of designers don’t get it right. I acquainted that it was time to bless men and advice them feel adequate walking into a abundance advised accurately for them, alike if women came along. That’s how this [Delhi] abundance happened. Now, I’m aperture the aforementioned affectionate of abundance in Colaba in Mumbai.

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What do you feel you’ve contributed 
to menswear?

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I don’t bethink men cutting big flowers a few years ago, but now they adulation florals and embroidery. They appetite article out-of-the- box. We started that movement.

How do you accumulate blame boundaries?

I get abundantly aggressive by architectonics and ancestry costumes. It could be Mughal or Russian. I advised a accumulating aggressive by the Taj Mahal about 25 years ago and strains of the aforementioned band accumulate advancing aback into my work. I anticipate afterwards a while that afflatus becomes allotment of your own personality.

Do you absence the Nineties?

Not at all. It was too accessible then, there was no challenge. The Nineties were a capricious phase. The aboriginal few years went by like a breeze because there were four or bristles designers in the country and no competition. But it was a fun time. The Seventies were abounding of iconic bodies who set the standard, whether you attending at Bollywood or Hollywood. The Eighties were hideous; the ugliest era of fashion. The Nineties were a consolidation, and accepting accessible for the millennium. Now we’re activity through a revolution, men are evolving, but they’re far from peaking.

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Is the accustomed bearing of designers allowance men get there?

I anticipate the new bearing is apathetic because they accept it all. That’s why there’s no aboriginal artistic thought. Everything’s actuality ripped off. They don’t go out to markets, to Varanasi, to altered genitalia of the country for research, because everything’s accessible at the tip 
of their fingers. But they’re accept to fly 
abroad. They attending bottomward on Indian clothes, 
bridal outfits, ability and embroidery. That’s their better aberration because the alone backbone we accept is our craft. We’ve acutely fabricated aggregate actual accessible for 
the adolescent generation.

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“I don’t bethink men cutting big flowers a few years ago but now they adulation florals and embroidery. They appetite article unusual. We started that movement.”

Is there a new artistic chic on the horizon?

In the aftermost ten years, I can name three or 
four designers who’ve absolutely fabricated it to the top. The blow accept this camp acumen that the uglier it is, the added fashionable. They don’t realise that appearance is consistently meant to be classic, apprehensive and has got to do with acceptable taste. Aftertaste is a relatable term, but there’s a universally accustomed abstraction of beauty. A admirable man or woman is activity to be admirable in any allotment of the world. There’s a delusion that appearance is glamour, parties, drugs and alcohol. It’s absolutely not about that at all. It’s adamantine work.

Are celebrities the new faces of fashion?

Now all I see is a C-class celebrity walking the ramp. I don’t see the accumulating actuality accent in accessories or on amusing media. No interviews of the designers. It’s like a virus bistro into appearance and antibacterial it. It’s seeping into people’s mindsets – anybody looks the same. I anticipate we’re activity through the afterlife of originality.

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How are you alteration that?

The abutting bristles years for me are about absorption on craft. I appetite to get absorbed in interiors; I already architecture weddings and people’s homes privately, but it’s article I appetite to aggrandize on. I see myself as somebody who’ll become a revivalist of craft. Afterwards a while, you’ve been there, done that; you’ve done the funk, spunk, all the craziness… Now I see myself accomplishing the beautiful. We’ve additionally aloof accomplished a big couture show, Guldastah, with a accumulating that’ll see us through the blithe season, with a few added shows advancing up.

What’s your analogue of the Rohit Bal 
man today?

It may complete bank but I absolutely anticipate the guy should be attractive and fit. He needs to accept a avant-garde angle and yet a able faculty of our cultural heritage. Unfortunately, it’s actual difficult to acquisition that combination. He additionally needs to accept courage, a abundant faculty of alone appearance and, ultimately, be somebody who doesn’t absolutely accord a fuck. Whether he’s active a Fiat or Bentley, it doesn’t matter. Aggregate about him should be for him rather than him activity for anybody else. So, a actual circuitous man, to be honest.

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